1) Handmade Axes :
Toady there are a lot of Axes in the market but the problem as these type of
Axes are not handmade, for saving time they use machine, My Axes are 100
percent handmade and made after weeks of hard work.
2) Quality
My goal is to not only give handmade but also to give the best quality as i
have experience of 10 years in making axes
Axes edges are designed to cut Woods or anything very easily also its handle
has grip which means your hand not going to get tired after holding it for long
time.
3) Process of making
1) Forging
The first step is to chisel a hole in a block of mild low carbon steel. This
is where the eye will take place. Using a mandrel the eye is stretched into the
needed size. Next a notch is chiselled in one end of the billet and a wedge
shaped peace of alloyed Bohler K460 tool steel is inserted in it to form the
harder cutting edge. Now the axe is heated to a dark yellow color and borax is
sprinkled on it. Melted borax liquefies the oxidation scale and washes it out
of the welding seam. Once again the axe is heated, this time to a bright yellow
glow, and forged so that the two pieces of steel forge weld together. The
blacksmith then forges the axe’s head into a shape and grinds the rough edge.
Now the axe is ready to be annealed.
2) Heat treatment. Grinding. Sharpening
Annealing is needed to remove the inner stresses in the steel formed during
the forging. To do that axe is heated to 850 degrees Celsius and cooled very
slowly to room temperature. After that the axe goes to second heat treatment
step which is normalizing. For this the axe is heated again, this time to a 800
degrees Celsius, our makers mark is stamped into the steel and the axe is
cooled down in the air. Normalizing prepares the structure of the steel for the
next step; hardening. Again the axe goes into a furnace and is heated to 800
degrees Celsius. Then the axe is quenched in mineral oil and water. Now the axe
is hard enough, but is very brittle so it needs to be tempered. For the last
time the axe is heated to 220 degrees Celsius, and is held at that temperature
for one hour. After the axe is tempered to Rockwell 58-59 (HRC) and the steel
is hot enough, a mixture of bees wax, linseed oil and turpentine is applied to
the axe head.
This is a very old and effective way to protect the tool from rusting. After
grinding and polishing the axe blade, it becomes razor sharp and is ready to
get its own unique handle.
3) Handle making
Each axe handle is made individually for each axe head to achieve a perfect
fit. To start, a knot-free piece, of locally harvested and kiln dryed (6-8% of
moisture) Red Elm wood is chosen and then marked out using a template. We use
only parallel grained wood to the axe eye, if the grain of the wood will be
perpendicular to the axe eye - it will brake fast and will not last long. The
rough shape of the handle is sawn using a band saw. Next the handle is shaped
using a draw knife. Axe eye dimensions are marked on the top of the handle and
the handle is shaved to almost fit the eye. Final finishing is carried out
using sandpaper to ensure a close fit. Then the axe handle is tightly punched
into the axe head and locked with the wooden wedge which is glued in with an
epoxy wood glue. A small steel wedge is hammered into the wooden wedge to lock
the axe head vertically. Now the axe has been laid in the Tung oil bath for 24
hours, this fills the wood pores with the oil, and swells the handle so after a
week the oil dries and polymerizes and wood is fully protected and it will
never shrink.
Like our other leather goods, the axe sheath is made from cowhide that's
manufactured in a local tannery using the same methods and techniques that were
used 100 years ago. 4mm thick leather is dyed with Fiebings professional oil
dye. Afterwards, the leather is treated with palm leaf wax and heated beeswax
that gives it a vintage look and protection. As final finish Fiebings Acrylic
resoline is being applied.
4) Have any question ?
Feel free to contact us i am ready to reply all of your question within 2 hours